From high-end aesthetic clinics to budget supermarkets, collagen is having a moment. Whether served as fruity shots or powdered supplements, this structural protein is being promoted as the secret to glowing skin and lustrous hair.

Celebrities are endorsing it, too. Actor Leslie Ash recently claimed that a collagen-stimulating treatment called NeoGen had “taken 10 years off her.”

But behind the buzz and glossy branding lies a central question: can anything truly boost collagen levels—and is it even beneficial to do so?

Collagens are a family of proteins that provide strength and structure to skin, cartilage, and other tissues. These proteins form long chains of amino acids, which twist into strong fibres known as fibrils.

Under an electron microscope, the fibrils in young, healthy skin appear as a basket-like mesh. With age, collagen levels decline, and the remaining fibres become increasingly cross-linked and fragmented.

“In younger skin, the fibres are longer and more flexible. But in older skin, they’re shorter and more rigid—mainly due to UV damage,” said Prof John Connelly, an expert in skin regeneration at Queen Mary University of London.

Collagen isn’t the only protein that keeps skin looking youthful. Elastin provides elasticity, while other proteins help stabilise the structure. Long sugar chains known as glycosaminoglycans—including the well-known skincare ingredient hyaluronic acid—hydrate the skin and support its plumpness. Like collagen, all of these degrade with age, contributing to wrinkles and sagging.

Still, collagen continues to dominate the spotlight. Many skincare products list it as an ingredient, but “these proteins are very large and don’t easily penetrate the skin when applied topically,” said Prof Tanya Shaw, a wound healing expert at King’s College London and spokesperson for the British Skin Foundation. That said, collagen in creams may help retain moisture on the skin’s surface, providing a temporary plumping effect.

Collagen drinks and supplements are a newer trend. These aim to provide building blocks for fibroblasts—the skin cells responsible for collagen production. There’s also some evidence that fragments of collagen might act as signals, prompting fibroblasts to produce not just collagen, but also elastin and hyaluronic acid, said Dr Jonathan Kentley, a dermatologist at Montrose Clinic and Chelsea and Westminster Hospital.

Most supplements use collagen derived from chicken, fish, or pork, which is absorbed through the gut and delivered to the skin via the bloodstream. However, digestion may break down these proteins further, and it remains unclear whether ordinary dietary proteins could provide the same benefits, said both Connelly and Shaw.

Even if collagen fragments do reach the skin, their effectiveness is uncertain. “If you start producing new collagen, where does it go, and how does it interact with the existing, damaged structure?” asked Dr Mike Sherratt, a skin mechanics specialist at the University of Manchester. “Also, if it enters the bloodstream, it could affect other tissues—not just the skin.”

Animal studies provide some support: radio-labelled collagen fragments have been shown to reach the skin and increase collagen gene activity in mice. “Mouse studies also show reduced wrinkle formation after UV exposure,” Kentley added.

Some human trials have reported improvements in hydration, elasticity, and wrinkle reduction after taking fish-derived collagen. But most of these studies were industry-funded, and a recent meta-analysis of 23 trials found that only those backed by manufacturers reported significant effects. “When studies were separated by quality, only the lower-quality ones showed skin benefits,” said Kentley. “So the results should be interpreted with caution.”

And what about procedures like NeoGen? This treatment uses high-frequency radio waves to convert nitrogen gas into plasma, which delivers controlled heat deep into the skin. Animal studies suggest this thermal stress can remodel collagen, tighten skin, and shed surface layers for improved tone.

“Small clinical trials have shown improvements in tone and wrinkle depth,” said Kentley. “But it’s still a relatively new technology, and evidence is limited.”

Other techniques like microneedling or injectable biostimulators (such as Sculptra) work by triggering a healing response that stimulates collagen production. While some clinical evidence supports their use, the quality of this data varies—and no large, comparative trials exist.

Kentley added: “Aesthetic medicine is highly individualised, and each treatment comes with its own risks and benefits. The best approach is to consult a qualified physician who isn’t driven by profit.”

As for topical treatments, one proven option is tretinoin, a prescription-strength retinoid that’s been shown to stimulate collagen and reduce pigmentation.

Celebrity endorsements and dramatic transformations can be convincing—but it’s important to remember these treatments are not permanent fixes. They require ongoing sessions and can be expensive. The most reliable way to preserve collagen is simple: protect your skin from UV damage by wearing sunscreen from an early age.

For those of us who didn’t grow up using sunscreen, it’s wise to temper our expectations. While today’s treatments may offer temporary firmness and radiance, much of the underlying damage is already done—and may be impossible to reverse.