Can artificial intelligence be luxury? Gucci thinks so

At Milan Fashion Week on February 27, designer Demna Gvasalia made his highly anticipated runway debut as the new creative director of Gucci with a collection called Primavera.

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Photo: Collected

Before the show even began, Gucci stirred debate by posting a series of AI-generated promotional images on Instagram — some paired with classic photos like Sophia Loren leaving a Gucci store in 1966, others showing imaginative luxury scenes created by artificial intelligence. The posts were labelled “Created with AI,” a bold move that surprised many fashion watchers and sparked both excitement and criticism online.

Backstage, Demna defended his use of AI, saying it’s simply a tool — much like the digital technologies adopted by retailers in the past — and that using it to generate ideas or mood visuals shouldn’t be controversial in 2026. Known for his provocative work at Balenciaga and his disruptive approach to luxury, Demna said he wants Gucci to be about feeling and energy, not just craftsmanship.

On the runway, the clothes reflected that philosophy. Models wore tight, body-centric pieces that blended minimalist basics with sensual, provocative details — a departure from the more intellectual or purely conceptual designs some had expected. The show’s sensibility, some critics noted, mirrored the blankness and immediacy of digital culture, rather than traditional luxury fashion, and left observers debating whether Gucci’s direction under Demna prioritises spectacle and trendiness over refined quality.